In October and November 2016 I spent two weeks in southern Spain exploring Córdoba, Granada, Ronda, and Seville. My starting point was Madrid, where I had spent almost three weeks doing Spanish language study and sightseeing.
Itinerary
| Day | Daytime | Night |
|---|---|---|
| Fly to Madrid from US | Madrid | |
| Madrid - 2 1/2 weeks of language study | Madrid | |
| 1 | AVE to Córdoba | Córdoba |
| 2 | Córdoba | Córdoba |
| 3 | Córdoba | Córdoba |
| 4 | Bus to Granada | Granada |
| 5 | Granada | Granada |
| 6 | Granada | Granada |
| 7 | Train to Ronda | Ronda |
| 8 | Ronda | Ronda |
| 9 | Ronda | Ronda |
| 10 | Bus to Sevilla | Sevilla |
| 11 | Sevilla | Sevilla |
| 12 | Sevilla | Sevilla |
| 13 | Sevilla | Sevilla |
| 14 | AVE to Madrid | Madrid |
| 15 | Flight back to US |
Timing
According to locals, October is the best month to visit Madrid. The weather is generally sunny and warm without the tourist crowds of summer. This October was unusually rainy, but I still loved seeing the fall color in Retiro Park.
November’s mild temperatures make it an excellent time to explore southern Spain. Historically, it’s also low tourist season. However, in 2016 tourists visited Spain in record numbers due to recent terrorist attacks in once popular vacation spots like Egypt, Tunisia, and Turkey.
Transportation
Getting There and Away: I got a good deal on a return ticket to Madrid from the US on Delta. It’s worth setting price alerts for a variety of dates on sites like Skyscanner to take advantage of fare sales quickly when they arise.
Getting Around: Uber is not available in many cities in Spain due to taxi driver protests, although excellent public transport and walkable city centers make taxis less crucial.
I took the AVE high-speed train between Madrid and Córdoba and between Seville and Madrid since it saves so much time over bus travel. Book 90 days in advance to secure the lowest rate. I used the excellent Loco2 rail booking service to receive alerts when my dates were available for booking and to avoid using Spain’s notoriously unreliable official railway site.
Once in Andalusia I took trains when they were comparable in price to buses. Buses generally are the cheapest option, and comfortable although they lack on-board toilets!
Accommodation
I stayed in Airbnbs throughout Spain and had a fantastic experience. The hospitable, gregarious nature of the Spanish make them great Airbnb hosts.
SIM card and apps
I bought a SIM with a 2GB monthly data plan with limited voice and SMS at an Orange store in Madrid. I needed to show my passport but otherwise it was a straightforward transaction. At the end of the month Orange granted me another free 2GB of data as part of a promotion. This worked out well since I only had another week in the country.
Having a data plan for my phone turned out to be essential since Wi-Fi in the Airbnbs often was unreliable.
As in the rest of Europe, I recommend installing WhatsApp since it’s commonly used for messaging.
Madrid
I spent three weeks in Madrid. Most of my time was absorbed by intensive Spanish studies at AIL Madrid. I stayed at an Airbnb in Barrio de Salamanca, the upscale central neighborhood where my Spanish school was located.
Madrid is a vibrant city with a wealth of cultural activities and great day trips. Highlights for me included the Prado (go when it opens and during the week if possible to avoid crowds), Retiro Park, and a day trip to Toledo.
I’m still dreaming of Madrid and want to return soon for a longer stay.
Córdoba
I’m glad I started off my Andalusian journey in Córdoba. While lovely, for me it was eclipsed by cities like Granada or Seville I visited afterwards. The Mezquita without doubt is breathtaking and was the highlight of my visit.
Granada
Granada is magical. I recommend reading Washington Irving’s Tales of the Alhambra during or after your visit to gain an appreciation of the city’s fascinating legends and history.
I bought my Alhambra tickets online two months in advance. In summer it would be wise to book three months ahead, as it is incredibly popular and it’s very difficult to get tickets on the spot.
Ronda
Ronda is lovely and worth at least one night’s stay. I recommend doing the two to three hour Camino de los Molinos hike through the surrounding countryside to see the famous Puente Nuevo bridge from below.
Seville
Seville is justifiably famous as the crown jewel of Andalusia. You could probably spend a week here without running out of things to do. Three days was just enough to get a taste.
Devour Spain’s tapas and wine tasting tour was a highlight of my time in Seville. Our small, friendly group sampled 10 traditional tapas and seven local wines over a very enjoyable evening.
Devour Spain also has tours in Madrid, Barcelona, and Málaga. I definitely plan to check out more of their foodie experiences.
Future Visits
Spain is now my favorite country in Europe! I’m already planning my return. Next time, I’d like to do more language study in Madrid followed by a visit to the Basque Country and the north.
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Gorgeous photos, as always! Interesting how you felt the effects of current world events on your travels. And thanks, you’ve gotten me interested in Spain – I generally don’t think about it much when planning trips and yet, it’s so easy and (relatively) inexpensive to get to from DUS. Will certainly take your advice at some point to visit Granada and Seville!
Danke dir! I’m so envious of you, living in the heart of Europe with the benefit of budget airlines. It must be incredible to have so many world-class destinations a short flight away.
It’s funny, I’ve been analyzing why I loved Spain so much. To me it’s the perfect mix of what I love best about both Europe and Latin America: the sophistication of an ancient civilization combined with a warmth and openness of the people that I miss in northern Europe. 😉
Hello Ingrid, I just found your blog this morning as i researched spanish immersion classes. I then found your report on your visit to Spain. I returned yesterday from a 4.5 week trip, 3 weeks in Portugal then to Madrid for 10 days in central Spain. Your photos of Andalucia took me back to a previous trip to beautiful southern Spain. It is an amazing country and I hope to return soon.
I thought you may be interested in extending your next trip to central Spain by volunteering for a week in an English immersion course for Spaniards – check http://www.diverbo.com. I just completed a week at the La Alberca site and it was very interesting. “Anglos” get free room and board, and the opportunity to get to know some amazing Spaniards by talking with them for a week. The students last week were almost all professionals, ranging from late 20s to mid 50s. The week was tiring (especially for the introverts) but a great experience. The program is also offered in Germany. Thought I’d share with you.
Hi Jane, great minds think alike! I have in fact seriously considered doing this volunteer program. My only concern as an “Anglo” fluent in Spanish is that I might be tempted to use a Spanish word or two, or to let drop somehow that I understand Spanish. And then there is the introvert thing… although I suspect a few glasses of wine might help with that! 😉 I think it sounds like a fantastic opportunity to get to know Spanish locals and spend a week in a beautiful location. Thank you for your recommendation… Maybe I need to write a post on it. 🙂
Hello, so to be clear non “Anglos” are charged for room and board? What exactly do they term Anglo – can you clarify as because this sounds awful like discrimination.
Hi Courtney, I agree, this term is confusing! In this program, the native-English-speaking volunteers are called Anglos to distinguish them from the Spanish attendees… it doesn’t have anything to do with race or ethnicity.