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Spain: Two Weeks in October/November 2016

In October and November 2016 I spent two weeks in southern Spain exploring Córdoba, Granada, Ronda, and Seville. My starting point was Madrid, where I had spent almost three weeks doing Spanish language study and sightseeing.

Itinerary

DayDaytimeNight
Fly to Madrid from USMadrid
Madrid - 2 1/2 weeks of language studyMadrid
1AVE to CórdobaCórdoba
2CórdobaCórdoba
3CórdobaCórdoba
4Bus to GranadaGranada
5GranadaGranada
6GranadaGranada
7Train to RondaRonda
8RondaRonda
9RondaRonda
10Bus to SevillaSevilla
11SevillaSevilla
12SevillaSevilla
13SevillaSevilla
14AVE to MadridMadrid
15Flight back to US

Timing

Sunny October day, Gran Vía, Madrid
Sunny October day, Gran Vía, Madrid

According to locals, October is the best month to visit Madrid. The weather is generally sunny and warm without the tourist crowds of summer. This October was unusually rainy, but I still loved seeing the fall color in Retiro Park.

November’s mild temperatures make it an excellent time to explore southern Spain. Historically, it’s also low tourist season. However, in 2016 tourists visited Spain in record numbers due to recent terrorist attacks in once popular vacation spots like Egypt, Tunisia, and Turkey.

Transportation

Getting There and Away: I got a good deal on a return ticket to Madrid from the US on Delta. It’s worth setting price alerts for a variety of dates on sites like Skyscanner to take advantage of fare sales quickly when they arise.

Getting Around: Uber is not available in many cities in Spain due to taxi driver protests, although excellent public transport and walkable city centers make taxis less crucial.

I took the AVE high-speed train between Madrid and Córdoba and between Seville and Madrid since it saves so much time over bus travel. Book 90 days in advance to secure the lowest rate. I used the excellent Loco2 rail booking service to receive alerts when my dates were available for booking and to avoid using Spain’s notoriously unreliable official railway site.

Once in Andalusia I took trains when they were comparable in price to buses. Buses generally are the cheapest option, and comfortable although they lack on-board toilets!

Accommodation

View onto the Alhambra from my Airbnb in Granada
View onto the Alhambra from my Airbnb in Granada
My kind Airbnb host in Madrid took me out for a typical Spanish breakfast: churros, café con leche, and pan con tomate
My kind Airbnb host in Madrid took me out for a typical Spanish breakfast: churros, café con leche, and pan con tomate

I stayed in Airbnbs throughout Spain and had a fantastic experience. The hospitable, gregarious nature of the Spanish make them great Airbnb hosts.

SIM card and apps

I bought a SIM with a 2GB monthly data plan with limited voice and SMS at an Orange store in Madrid. I needed to show my passport but otherwise it was a straightforward transaction. At the end of the month Orange granted me another free 2GB of data as part of a promotion. This worked out well since I only had another week in the country.

Having a data plan for my phone turned out to be essential since Wi-Fi in the Airbnbs often was unreliable.

As in the rest of Europe, I recommend installing WhatsApp since it’s commonly used for messaging.

Madrid

View from El Corte Inglés, Callao, Madrid
View from El Corte Inglés, Callao, Madrid

I spent three weeks in Madrid. Most of my time was absorbed by intensive Spanish studies at AIL Madrid. I stayed at an Airbnb in Barrio de Salamanca, the upscale central neighborhood where my Spanish school was located.

Madrid is a vibrant city with a wealth of cultural activities and great day trips. Highlights for me included the Prado (go when it opens and during the week if possible to avoid crowds), Retiro Park, and a day trip to Toledo.

I’m still dreaming of Madrid and want to return soon for a longer stay.

Living wall, CaixaForum museum and cultural center, Madrid
Living wall, CaixaForum museum and cultural center, Madrid
Madrid Atocha. The only train station I've ever seen that contains a tropical rainforest.
Madrid Atocha. The only train station I’ve ever seen that contains a tropical rainforest.
Madrid Atocha
Madrid Atocha
Sanctuary for abandoned pet turtles, Madrid Atocha
Sanctuary for abandoned pet turtles, Madrid Atocha
View from El Corte Inglés, Callao, Madrid
View from El Corte Inglés, Callao, Madrid
Museo Reina Sofía. Amazing courtyard and glass elevators.
Museo Reina Sofía. Amazing courtyard and glass elevators.
Signs in Madrid
Signs in Madrid
Jamón ibérico, everyone's favorite snack
Jamón ibérico, everyone’s favorite snack
Delicious meal of typical Spanish food at the home of my awesome iTalki tutor Bárbara
Delicious meal of typical Spanish food at the home of my awesome iTalki tutor Bárbara
View over Toledo. Beautiful even in the rain.
View over Toledo. Beautiful even in the rain.
Mass in Toledo cathedral
Mass in Toledo cathedral
Monastery in Toledo
Monastery in Toledo

Córdoba

Mezquita, Córdoba
Mezquita, Córdoba

I’m glad I started off my Andalusian journey in Córdoba. While lovely, for me it was eclipsed by cities like Granada or Seville I visited afterwards. The Mezquita without doubt is breathtaking and was the highlight of my visit.

View from bell tower, Mezquita, Córdoba
View from bell tower, Mezquita, Córdoba
View from bell tower, Mezquita, Córdoba
View from bell tower, Mezquita, Córdoba
Richly gilded mihrab or prayer niche, used in a mosque to identify the wall that faces Mecca. Mezquita, Córdoba.
Richly gilded mihrab or prayer niche, used in a mosque to identify the wall that faces Mecca. Mezquita, Córdoba.
Dome over mihrab or prayer niche, used in a mosque to identify the wall that faces Mecca. Mezquita, Córdoba.
Dome over mihrab or prayer niche, used in a mosque to identify the wall that faces Mecca. Mezquita, Córdoba.
Lots of fancy weddings at the Mezquita, Córdoba
Lots of fancy weddings at the Mezquita, Córdoba

Granada

Alhambra at night from my Airbnb's roof terrace, Granada
Alhambra at night from my Airbnb’s roof terrace, Granada
Typical Moroccan shop in the Albayzín Arab quarter of Granada
Typical Moroccan shop in the Albayzín Arab quarter of Granada

Granada is magical. I recommend reading Washington Irving’s Tales of the Alhambra during or after your visit to gain an appreciation of the city’s fascinating legends and history.

I bought my Alhambra tickets online two months in advance. In summer it would be wise to book three months ahead, as it is incredibly popular and it’s very difficult to get tickets on the spot.

Generalife gardens, Alhambra, Granada
Generalife gardens, Alhambra, Granada
Alhambra, Granada
Alhambra, Granada
Skylights in Arab baths, Alhambra
Skylights in Arab baths, Alhambra
Wall carvings, Alhambra, Granada
Wall carvings, Alhambra, Granada
Flamenco in Granada
Flamenco in Granada

Ronda

Sunset at Puente Nuevo, Ronda
Sunset at Puente Nuevo, Ronda

Ronda is lovely and worth at least one night’s stay. I recommend doing the two to three hour Camino de los Molinos hike through the surrounding countryside to see the famous Puente Nuevo bridge from below.

View from cliffs of Ronda
View from cliffs of Ronda
Arab baths and Arab bridge, Ronda
Arab baths and Arab bridge, Ronda
View onto Puente Nuevo from Camino de los Molinos hike, Ronda
View onto Puente Nuevo from Camino de los Molinos hike, Ronda
Camino de los Molinos hike, Ronda
Camino de los Molinos hike, Ronda
Octopus and apple salad tapa, Ronda
Octopus and apple salad tapa, Ronda
Ronda's famous bullring
Ronda’s famous bullring
Ronda's famous bullring
Ronda’s famous bullring

Seville

Performance at the Museo del Flamenco, Seville
Performance at the Museo del Flamenco, Seville

Seville is justifiably famous as the crown jewel of Andalusia. You could probably spend a week here without running out of things to do. Three days was just enough to get a taste.

Devour Spain’s tapas and wine tasting tour was a highlight of my time in Seville. Our small, friendly group sampled 10 traditional tapas and seven local wines over a very enjoyable evening.

Devour Spain also has tours in Madrid, Barcelona, and Málaga. I definitely plan to check out more of their foodie experiences.

Trying delicious tapas on Devour Spain's Tapas & Wine Tasting Tour
Trying delicious tapas on Devour Spain’s Tapas & Wine Tasting Tour
Christopher Columbus's tomb, Seville cathedral
Christopher Columbus’s tomb, Seville cathedral
Triana Market, Seville
Triana Market, Seville
Patio de las Doncellas, Alcázar, Sevilla. Lots of Game of Thrones scenes were shot at the Alcázar.
Patio de las Doncellas, Alcázar, Sevilla. Lots of Game of Thrones scenes were shot at the Alcázar.
The Baths of Lady María de Padilla, Alcázar, Seville
The Baths of Lady María de Padilla, Alcázar, Seville
Tiles, Alcázar, Seville
Tiles, Alcázar, Seville
View from Giralda tower, Seville
View from Giralda tower, Seville

Future Visits

Spain is now my favorite country in Europe! I’m already planning my return. Next time, I’d like to do more language study in Madrid followed by a visit to the Basque Country and the north.


Note: I never accept compensation or freebies for my writing. If I recommend a business, it’s because I loved them and think you will too.

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January 4, 2017 by Ingrid 6 Comments

About Ingrid

Ingrid left software engineering at age 43 to devote herself to language learning and travel. Her goal is to speak seven languages fluently. Currently, she speaks English, German, Spanish, Portuguese, and French, and is studying Italian.

Reader Interactions

Comments

  1. Rainier

    January 5, 2017 at 6:26 am

    Gorgeous photos, as always! Interesting how you felt the effects of current world events on your travels. And thanks, you’ve gotten me interested in Spain – I generally don’t think about it much when planning trips and yet, it’s so easy and (relatively) inexpensive to get to from DUS. Will certainly take your advice at some point to visit Granada and Seville!

    Reply
    • Ingrid

      January 5, 2017 at 12:09 pm

      Danke dir! I’m so envious of you, living in the heart of Europe with the benefit of budget airlines. It must be incredible to have so many world-class destinations a short flight away.

      It’s funny, I’ve been analyzing why I loved Spain so much. To me it’s the perfect mix of what I love best about both Europe and Latin America: the sophistication of an ancient civilization combined with a warmth and openness of the people that I miss in northern Europe. 😉

      Reply
  2. Jane Hutch

    October 28, 2018 at 12:18 pm

    Hello Ingrid, I just found your blog this morning as i researched spanish immersion classes. I then found your report on your visit to Spain. I returned yesterday from a 4.5 week trip, 3 weeks in Portugal then to Madrid for 10 days in central Spain. Your photos of Andalucia took me back to a previous trip to beautiful southern Spain. It is an amazing country and I hope to return soon.
    I thought you may be interested in extending your next trip to central Spain by volunteering for a week in an English immersion course for Spaniards – check http://www.diverbo.com. I just completed a week at the La Alberca site and it was very interesting. “Anglos” get free room and board, and the opportunity to get to know some amazing Spaniards by talking with them for a week. The students last week were almost all professionals, ranging from late 20s to mid 50s. The week was tiring (especially for the introverts) but a great experience. The program is also offered in Germany. Thought I’d share with you.

    Reply
    • Ingrid

      October 28, 2018 at 4:27 pm

      Hi Jane, great minds think alike! I have in fact seriously considered doing this volunteer program. My only concern as an “Anglo” fluent in Spanish is that I might be tempted to use a Spanish word or two, or to let drop somehow that I understand Spanish. And then there is the introvert thing… although I suspect a few glasses of wine might help with that! 😉 I think it sounds like a fantastic opportunity to get to know Spanish locals and spend a week in a beautiful location. Thank you for your recommendation… Maybe I need to write a post on it. 🙂

      Reply
    • Courtney

      December 28, 2018 at 12:11 am

      Hello, so to be clear non “Anglos” are charged for room and board? What exactly do they term Anglo – can you clarify as because this sounds awful like discrimination.

      Reply
      • Ingrid

        January 5, 2019 at 8:14 pm

        Hi Courtney, I agree, this term is confusing! In this program, the native-English-speaking volunteers are called Anglos to distinguish them from the Spanish attendees… it doesn’t have anything to do with race or ethnicity.

        Reply

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